Flash and tune with Woolich.

[TSloper]

Originally Posted by Rantz1018

239 degrees F is crazy. I like seeing data. I’d love to see the timing at that 239F IAT. Then do the same thing but see what the computer does with timing if you were to add in some VP racing octanium “octane booster” to the mix. See if the computer will hold more timing with the extra octane. People in the mustang world I come from use it who don’t have access to e85. Works well apparently.

Timing pulled from the air temp is going to be different than timing pulled from a knock event. You could go straight 104 unleaded and the timing will still get pulled on the air temp front. You have to tune for the specific fuel octane used to get maximum results.

Tim

[Rantz1018]

Originally Posted by TSloper

Timing pulled from the air temp is going to be different than timing pulled from a knock event. You could go straight 104 unleaded and the timing will still get pulled on the air temp front. You have to tune for the specific fuel octane used to get maximum results.

Tim

Hot IAT’s is going to cause a knock event. Reason kawi tanks the timing stock. Would be an interesting test is all. Depends on what Kawi sets as thresholds in the factory tuning. If the knock sensor doesn’t detect any knock from the extra octane it might keep more timing in it even with higher IAT’s. Like I said it’s all what Kawi set for thresholds.

[TSloper]

Timing pulled due to IAT is a preemptive action and very necessary. If you are only waiting for knock sensor events to make a change you are going to have a bad day. Every knock event at full load is causing damage. Knock sensors should only be relied upon to accomodate a fuel octane or load situation you didn't anticipate in normal operation.

[Vanessa]

The more I ride my ZH2, and the harder I push it, the more I'm beginning to understand why you guys complain about the power restrictions as the engine approaches the red line. If I really ride outside of my usual style, and accelerate hard up to the red line, I can feel the power drop off. This is in stark contrast to a naturally aspirated engine where the power builds and builds to the redline. This isn't timing being pulled, it feels more like the ETV's closing. I can appreciate that if you like the top end rush feeling, that over time this bike would possibly become irritating.
However, I do also find the mid-range thrust is appreciably stronger than a naturally aspirated 1000cc bike, due to the supercharger no doubt.
The way road restrictions are playing out in Wales right now, with the real possibility of that nonsense spilling over into England at some point soon, bikes like the ZH2 will become increasingly more irrelevant here. So I can see me eventually parting with mine, rather than tuning and modifying it.
At least I can say I enjoyed it whilst it lasted. Damned climate fascists.

[ESR]

Originally Posted by Vanessa

The more I ride my ZH2, and the harder I push it, the more I'm beginning to understand why you guys complain about the power restrictions as the engine approaches the red line. If I really ride outside of my usual style, and accelerate hard up to the red line, I can feel the power drop off. This is in stark contrast to a naturally aspirated engine where the power builds and builds to the redline. This isn't timing being pulled, it feels more like the ETV's closing. I can appreciate that if you like the top end rush feeling, that over time this bike would possibly become irritating.
However, I do also find the mid-range thrust is appreciably stronger than a naturally aspirated 1000cc bike, due to the supercharger no doubt.
The way road restrictions are playing out in Wales right now, with the real possibility of that nonsense spilling over into England at some point soon, bikes like the ZH2 will become increasingly more irrelevant here. So I can see me eventually parting with mine, rather than tuning and modifying it.
At least I can say I enjoyed it whilst it lasted. Damned climate fascists.

Aside the mentioned power restrictions, there's also the cam's profile and timing, they are quite conservative design.

Don't bother the climate f.....ts, after 2025-2026 they're done, when in this part of the world they realise our whole well-being and advances from the last 200 years are based on combustion, and not on electricity alone (which is in fact produced mostly the thermal way).

[GreenWeenie]

Originally Posted by TapeWorm

the S1000R is a completely valid comparison against the Z H2 in my mind.

Yah,

I have both. Both are flashed and tuned. The Z weights 50lbs more, and has 50 more hp.
The R is nimbler and more precise, but the Z just pulls like a freight train.

The Z is more comfortable

Each serves its own purpose.

[Skuuskuu]

Completely agree about 1st and 2nd derestricting, I did give more ETV than stock but both gears are more limited than the 3-5 tables I use. Even then, both gears can NOT be used without lifting the front wheel. This is, of course, altitude dependent. The higher up you live, the more aggressive you can get with low gear ETV values, I live 100ft elevation so... even 55% throttle open in 2nd will lift the front end.

Has anyone toyed with the anti-wheelie tables? Any info you want to share about it?

For those who want to maintain a very easy to ride throttle response when cruising around, a smooth cruise control that's less jerky than stock, and then an angry bike when you get on it this ETV map for 6th gear works very well for me. Modeled after the ZX10RR Race ECU ETV, but tamed slightly at lower opening:


3rd, 4th, and 5th I maintained the low opening areas to give a better crack response at turn-in during cornering, response in 3rd is a bit too sharp around 50% throttle but otherwise works well imo:

[Busabuser]

So not been here for more.than a few moment's. So please forgive my rant... I bought the 3rd BKing to arrive in the UK back in 2008, having had zx12s, std busa and then a charged busa. But the BKing made me a little sad,  I thought it was going to be a monster, but it was a nice handling naked everyday bike with about 160 at the wheel with  the usuals (pc/pipe/filter and tune)  on my charged busa, I used to tease fast cars up to fast speeds and laugh as I blew by them.....on my Bking...a tuned Audi s3 (!!!) Got to about.150, and I.couldnt do more than creep by him.

My point being that the Bking wasn't the monster it promised to be.. not at my state of tune anyway.

I was hoping the zh2 is the supercharged monster I dreamt of in the BKiNG. But It seems factory restrictions are abound on the Z. I'm getting mine on the 19th October..and I already have it booked in with my tuner to take those poxy restrictions off. I'm not looking for 240 RWHP and having to keep an eye on Af ratios or boost temps on long pulls. I just want a reliable supercharged UNRESTRICTED  motor. I don't care if it doesn't make bragging rights power, I just want to know it isn't being held back by 'sensible' restrictions (37% fuel @ 1200rpm?) WTF
I will probably never use the.full potential,  but I just.want the comfort that I have bought.a monster boosted bike that will be.able to do what it should. I don't want more just for bragging rights, if it makes 190 rwhp with all the restrictions off and be reliable...that's good with me. 

Ready for the flames...lol

[Snakes709]

Hey all, new to the forum and to the zh2 but not the platform. My wife bought a 2022 zh2 couple months ago and ai have a 2018 H2 SX/SE that has full bolt ons, intercooled (yager werx) and flashed by vcyclenut but i have the woolich hardware and have made very minor adjustments myself to the throttle map to help with 1st gear on my full power map. First ill start by saying at no time will I be sharing my maps as i respect vcyclenut and will not be advertising his tuning methods. With that out of the way, i read a few of the posts about intercoolered and the down side to it, which there is none.

My bike made 208whp on a low reading dyno with boltons and a flash. I suck at launching so my my ET sucks and doesnt matter anyways. But i was trapping consistent 145mph. After the intercooler and reflash with additional timing, I now trap 149mph.  I did multiple track days (road course) stock, moded and intercooled. I was seeing 100*c boost temps on 13*c ambient temp days without the intercooler but flashed. The ecu starts pulling timing around 75-80*c. Once i installed travis’s intercooler and reflashed again with additional timing, i havent seen boost temps past 74*c on our smaller tracks where there is less airflow and 64*c boost temps on a large track where i have hit 280kmh on the straight during 40*c days. My fans are now triggered to turn on at 95*c and off at 90*, which never come on when im on the track. So this bs about the intercooler blocking the rad, causing high temps is not true at all.

I have taken my wifes zh2 out for a track day and first thing i noticed is the suspension is beyond junk. First session i was dragging the kickstand on the ground until i had one of our race vendors set the suspension up, had to pull the rear shock out to adjust preload. Made it better but still understeered like crazy due to being way to soft. Second thing i noticed that extra 2 teeth in the rear sprocket makes this bike crazy. 1/3 throttle in road mode had the front wheel coming up like crazy out of the corners. Let one of the instructors take it for a rip as its his dream bike and he scratched it odd his list since the suspension is horrible.

Been debating what exhaust to go with to get rid of the ugly can, will likely do the gen 4 or 5 zx10r header and gen 5 yoshimura 3/4 system like i have on my bike. Will also install a sprint p08 filter and will be tuning her bike but will be leaving the power/throttle map alone for one of the maps for her and just adjust fueling. Another map will be be beast mode. With adjusting fueling it will improve fuel economy, along with different gearing. I already tossed a 19 tooth on her bike. My bike gets far better fuel economy being tuned and currently 18/43 gearing.

Anyways thats my .02 for now.

[MrC]

Originally Posted by Skuuskuu

Completely agree about 1st and 2nd derestricting, I did give more ETV than stock but both gears are more limited than the 3-5 tables I use. Even then, both gears can NOT be used without lifting the front wheel. This is, of course, altitude dependent. The higher up you live, the more aggressive you can get with low gear ETV values, I live 100ft elevation so... even 55% throttle open in 2nd will lift the front end.

Has anyone toyed with the anti-wheelie tables? Any info you want to share about it?

For those who want to maintain a very easy to ride throttle response when cruising around, a smooth cruise control that's less jerky than stock, and then an angry bike when you get on it this ETV map for 6th gear works very well for me. Modeled after the ZX10RR Race ECU ETV, but tamed slightly at lower opening:


3rd, 4th, and 5th I maintained the low opening areas to give a better crack response at turn-in during cornering, response in 3rd is a bit too sharp around 50% throttle but otherwise works well imo:

Is this on your ZH2 with stock pipe?
Did you disable the lamda etc, new to Woolich tuner, and just checking in on some information.

Cheers